So, your queen has successfully raised her first generation of workers, and the colony is growing—congratulations! 🎉 Now comes a major milestone in ant-keeping: moving the colony from its test tube into a formicarium (ant nest).
This transition needs to be timed correctly and done carefully to avoid stressing your ants. In this guide, we’ll cover:
✅ When to move them
✅ How to set up the formicarium
✅ The best moving techniques
✅ Feeding schedules, water sources, and maintenance
✅ Temperature and hibernation requirements
By the end of this guide, you’ll be ready to give your ants the perfect home! 🐜
1. When is the Right Time to Move the Colony?
Ant colonies don’t need a mansion straight away—moving them too early can cause stress and even slow down colony growth. A colony is ready to move when:
✔ The test tube is overcrowded – Workers are piled on top of each other with no space for brood.
✔ The water supply is nearly gone – The test tube is drying up, and they will need a new hydration source.
✔ Foraging activity has increased – If workers are frequently scouting outside the test tube (in an outworld), they may be ready for a bigger home.
🚨 Don’t move them too soon! A colony with only a few workers (nanitics) should stay in the test tube until they have at least 20+ workers. Smaller colonies do better in confined spaces, as it helps them feel secure.
For more details on moving ants from test tubes, check out How to Move a Queen Ant to a New Test Tube.
2. Choosing the Right Formicarium
Not all nests are created equal—picking the right one depends on your species and colony size. Here’s what to consider:
🔹 Acrylic & 3D-Printed Nests
✔ Good for beginner species like Banded Sugar Ants (Camponotus consobrinus).
✔ Easy to clean and control humidity.
✔ Available in many sizes, so you can start small and expand later.
🔹 Ytong (Aerated Concrete) or Plaster Nests
✔ Excellent for species needing higher humidity, such as Meat Ants (Iridomyrmex).
✔ Absorbs and holds water well.
✔ May require sealing to prevent crumbling.
🔹 Naturalistic Setups (Soil or Sand Nests)
✔ Ideal for Bull Ants (Myrmecia), who prefer digging.
✔ Harder to maintain and can cause visibility issues.
✔ Best for experienced keepers.
🚀 Pro Tip: Always choose a formicarium with a hydration system. Colonies need access to humidity, or they can dry out.
3. Setting Up the Formicarium
Before moving the colony, set up the new nest properly to make the transition smooth:
✅ Hydration – Ensure the formicarium’s water reservoir is filled.
✅ Temperature & Humidity – Keep conditions stable, based on your species’ needs.
✅ Block Off Extra Chambers – If the nest is too large, use cotton or removable barriers to limit unused space (ants prefer tighter nesting areas).
✅ Connect an Outworld – A small foraging area lets workers explore and find food once they’ve settled in.
4. The Moving Process (Without Chaos!)
🚀 The Passive Method (Best & Least Stressful)
Like moving between test tubes, the goal is to let the ants relocate naturally.
1️⃣ Place the test tube at the entrance of the formicarium.
2️⃣ Make the new nest more attractive by:
- Keeping it dark and humid.
- Shining a light on the test tube (ants prefer darkness).
3️⃣ Be patient – This process can take hours to days.
Most colonies will move on their own when conditions are right.
🐜 The Gentle Nudge Method (If They Won’t Move)
If the ants are stubborn, you can try:
🔹 Increasing humidity in the new nest – Makes it feel more like home.
🔹 Cooling the test tube slightly – Encourages them to seek a warmer area.
🔹 Gently tapping the test tube – Encourages movement without panic.
🚨 Avoid forcefully dumping the colony! Queens and brood are delicate—shaking them out can lead to injury.
5. Feeding & Watering Your Colony
Once the colony is in their new home, they’ll need regular food and water.
🔹 Water Sources
Your ants still need a constant water supply. The best ways to provide this are:
✔ A test tube with water and cotton placed in the outworld.
✔ A small insect feeder filled with water.
✔ Hydration chambers in the formicarium (if included in the design).
🔹 Feeding Sugar & Protein
Your ants need two main food groups:
🐜 Sugars (Energy): Honey water, sugar water, fresh fruit.
- Place a small drop on a piece of foil or in a tiny feeder to prevent drowning.
🐜 Proteins (Brood Growth): Mealworms, crickets, cooked chicken, egg yolk.
- Always kill live insects before offering them (unless feeding a highly aggressive species like Myrmecia).
✅ Always remove uneaten food after 24 hours to prevent mould.
📌 For a full guide on ant feeding, check out The Ultimate Ant Feeding Guide.
6. Temperature & Hibernation Requirements
Temperature plays a big role in colony growth.
- Warm-loving species (Iridomyrmex, Pheidole) thrive at 24-28°C.
- Cool-adapted species (Camponotus consobrinus) prefer 21-25°C.
🔹 Hibernation (Diapause) for Australian Ants
Some Australian species slow down in winter. If your ants reduce activity naturally, you can:
✔ Keep them at 15-18°C for a few months.
✔ Reduce feeding but keep water available.
✔ Resume normal care when temperatures rise.
🚨 Not all ants hibernate! Check your species’ needs before adjusting temperatures.
7. Cleaning & Maintenance
Keeping the formicarium clean is key to preventing mould and disease.
✔ Remove uneaten food after 24 hours.
✔ Clean the outworld weekly – Wipe with a damp cloth.
✔ Monitor humidity – Too much moisture can cause fungus.
✔ Check for escapes! – Ensure all seals are secure.
Conclusion
Moving your ants into a formicarium is an exciting milestone, but timing is key. Don’t rush the move—let the colony tell you when they’re ready. By following the right setup and moving techniques, you’ll ensure your ants transition smoothly into their new home and continue thriving.
🐜 Happy ant keeping! 🐜
